first set of infos complete

README.md

@@ -1,6 +1,7 @@
 # whisper catamaran sailing experiences
 
-![whisper](whisper.jpg)
+[![whisper](whisper.jpg)](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwhb6u4A_Hy-c-eJbMLW7bg)
+[YouTube videos](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwhb6u4A_Hy-c-eJbMLW7bg)
 
 # rigging and trimming tips
 ## main sail 
@@ -20,42 +21,57 @@ There is no need to adjust the ride-heigth with every tack to achieve the 15 deg
 
 # boat tweaks
 
-## rudder holder
-Launching the boat in shallow water requires to hold the rudder in position by hand. When sailing single-handed its impossible to pull the boat at the bow through the water and hold the rudder at the far distant end of the boat at the same time. so something needed to keep the rudder a quarter-height down. I had this door wedge at home, and squeeze this at the side of the rudder to keep it at height. This works ok, when pulling the boat, but as soon as you are on the boat and pick up speed, it falls off as the rudder gets lift. Yes, if you manage to better adjust the angle of the rudder so the force goes down, maybe its possible to better keep it in place. However, I had to dive for the wedge already and since added a line to it.
-
-Has anyone a better solution?
-
-
-![rudder wedge](rudderwedge.jpg)
-
-
 ## chicken line
 So far all of the capsizes and most of the splashes were related to losing balance on the boat. While I hope to get better at keeping balance and steering the boat smoother, I still need to be able to hold-on to something. The traveller line isnt ideal, as the traveller cleat opens to easily and when the traveller is a bit out, you pull the sale all the time. On my Nacra 16 I had a chicken-line, which saved me a couple of times from capsizing when sailing gennaker downwind. So here is my first implementation of a chicken line for the whisper. Its good, it works, and it could be further improved too.
 ![chicken line](chickenline.jpg)
 
-## hull lid marks
+I will try [Martin Langhoffs solution](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0dYLhHZWO4) next.
 
+## hull lid marks
+Trying to be a "good customer" I followed the advice to untighten the hull-lids - just a little bit by a half turn - so that the hull can equalize air pressure. However, on my third sail with this boat ever, I didnt notize during the pre-sail check that I forgot to tighen it. The lids were on, but just not tight. During a later capsize I lost then one of the hull-lids and flooded one hull with water. The Whisper almost sank and needed some rescue help. So to avoid this from happening ever again, I put a marker on the hull lid, so one can easily see whether its tight or not.
+![hull lid marks](markedhulllid.jpg)
 
 ## 4-wheel trolley
 So I do need a 4-wheel trolley to slip the whisper. The air-filled wheels swim nicely. But also they swim nicely, so risking to damage the foils when sliding the boat onto the trolley. So the best fix for this was to fill the rear wheels to almost 100% with liquid. The front wheels got only 50% liquid, so they would still swim, making it easier to keep it in contact with the hulls. I found from the camping area ecological frost proof liquid that is used for camping cars. It felt I filled the old airpump 1000x with that liquid and pressed it into the tyre. But it worked.    
 ![Sinking wheels](fillingtyreswithfrostproofliquid.jpg)
 ![4 wheel trolley](4wheeltrolley.jpg)
 
 ## slipping line
+I do slip boats with a winch. I found the best way to pull the Whisper is a dyneema line from the gennaker shackles on each side of the boat. I put a "cleanup" expansion cord in there so its not loose during sailing. 
+![slip line](slippingline.png)
 
 ## sacrificial halyard - no longer
+At the very first day with the Whisper we lost the jib halyard twice, requiring to pull down the mast. Also I wanted to minimize the amount of work to (de-)rig the Jib.
+My solution for this is to have:
+* 1.8mm line, about 2m longer than the original sacrificial halyard.  
+* tied on one end to the halyard eye
+* tied on the other end to my abovementioned slipping line
+So when hoisting the Jib, everything stays tied. I simply flake the new (non-)sacrificial halyard and stow it in the trampoline bag. Again, with all knots in place.
 
+Picture shows the (non-)sacrificial halyard tied with a mini-carabiner (not required) to the slip line. 
+![sacrificial halyard on slip line](sacrificialhalyardonslippingline.jpg)
 
 
 ## rigging tension 
 Tightening and loosening the rig at the stainless striker with the spanner wrench is somewhat annoying. 
 I am a lazy person - in the sense of repetitive tasks - and hence want to automate everything as much as possible.
 So I have ordered a 17mm spanner ratchet and let you know how much of a help it is.
-![fastratch](fastratch.jpg)
+![fastratch](fastratch.png)
+
+The Whisper manual says it should be 17 Loos gauge rigging tension. I justs bought a more modern spinlock from rig-sense. There is a conversion table to loos so my mast support rig with 120kg / 21loos should be fine.
 
-The Whisper manual says it should be 17 Loos gauge rigging tension. I justs bought a more modern spinlock from rig-sense. There is a conversion table from Loos.
+![rigging tension diamond](riggingtension.jpg)
 
-### safety line
+Here are some measurements...
+| Line | Tension in kg | Loos gauge (approx.) | comment |
+|------|---------------|----------------------|---------|
+| Mast support | 120kg | ~21   | measured below spi pole |
+| Diamond      | 60kg  | ~12   |
+| Shrouds      | 80kg  | ~17   |
+| Jib          | 70kg  | ~15   | measured above stainless striker |
+
+
+### mast safety line
 In order to avoid the mast falling accidentally when untightening the rigging tension at the stainless striker, I put a short piece of dyneema rope there. I am lazy and thats more convenient than tying the spinnaker halyard back and forth to secure the mast.
 ![mast safety line](mastsafetyline.jpg)
 
@@ -71,9 +87,14 @@ Yes, it costs a few grams, but its less stressful if you have a righting line th
 ## main sheet pulley
 
 ### 1) two-handed
-There is quite some force on your hands when constantly operating the main sheet to balancing the boat on the foils. So I ordered 40mm Harken blocks that allow for a 1:6 translation vs. default 1:4. I also ordered a variable thickness main sheet and need to splice it on the block properly so to not destroy the original pulley. I will let you know how it goes.
+There is quite some force on your hands when constantly operating the main sheet to balancing the boat on the foils. So I ordered 40mm Harken blocks that allow for a 6:1 translation vs. default 4:1. I also ordered a variable thickness main sheet and need to splice it on the block properly so to not destroy the original pulley. I will let you know how it goes.
+
+![6:1 pulley](6to1pulley.jpg)
+
 ![Harken blocks for two handed 1:6 purchase system](twohandedpulley1to6.jpg)
 
+![harken 6:1](harken6to1.jpg)
+
 ### 2) single-handed
 There are two issues making single-handed sailing more difficult. 
 * One is that the main-sheet location at the boom,pulls you forward, which makes it hard to balance when you are already hiking at the very end of the boat. 
@@ -82,15 +103,23 @@ There are two issues making single-handed sailing more difficult.
 So the idea is to solve both items with a set of following Harken blocks. I had to take the larger 57mm blocks because the cleats that fit the original block size would only handle 6mm lines, what is too tight for main sheets.
 ![Harken 57mm blocks](singlehandedpulley1to6withratchmatic.jpg)
 
-So once I have spliced the main sheet properly I will start testing this configuration and let you know.
+Yet to be tested.
 
 ## gps
 Having the only whisper at this lake is cool, yet suffers from the ability to match-race. So I need to know the speed on the go, to get a better sense what works. So far my conclusion is that proper boat balance has more impact than sail trim of jib sheet, mast rotation, cunningham. However, I am sure I still need to learn a lot.
 So I mounted a Velocitek SpeedPuck. 
 ![Speedpuck mounted on Whisper spinnaker boom](3dprintedvelocitekspeedpuckholder.jpg)
-The holder is 3D printed and can be found here [INSERT VELOCITEK HOLDER LINK].  
+The holder is 3D printed and can be found here [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1814601](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1814601).  
 ![3d printed holder](3dprint.jpg)
 
+## rudder holder
+Launching the boat in shallow water requires to hold the rudder in position by hand. When sailing single-handed its impossible to pull the boat at the bow through the water and hold the rudder at the far distant end of the boat at the same time. so something needed to keep the rudder a quarter-height down. I had this door wedge at home, and squeeze this at the side of the rudder to keep it at height. This works ok, when pulling the boat, but as soon as you are on the boat and pick up speed, it falls off as the rudder gets lift. Yes, if you manage to better adjust the angle of the rudder so the force goes down, maybe its possible to better keep it in place. However, I had to dive for the wedge already and since added a line to it.
+
+![rudder wedge](rudderwedge.jpg)
+
+However, it works only when there are no waves. Waves push the rudder up/down and the wedge falls immediately off. Has anyone a better solution?
+
+As alternative I am thinking about a rope from the T of the foil to keep it up, and another rope from top of foil to keep it down. Maybe 3D print a little piece that makes that easy. So the work on a boat never ends...
 
 ## how to remove water from the mast
 The mast should be water tight. But however, in my unfortunate case when I lost the lid of the hull and the boat almost sank, I did get water into it. The entire mast was in the water and it could have gottin in at the foot or somewhere else on the mast. Usually when capsizing the foot is above water, so less risky for untighteness.